High nitrate and ph

  • Wilson
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Wilson created the topic: High nitrate and ph

I just did my first liquid chemistry test on my tank. I was using strips but they were awful. Here we're my results. Ph 7.6 ammonia .25 Nitrite 0 and nitrate at 40. I then did my weekly water change and tested again later and my nitrate is .40 and the ammonia is barely .25. Are these parameters safe. As for the ph my tap water tested a 7.8. Thanks in advance for you help.
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  • Firestorm8215
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Firestorm8215 replied the topic: High nitrate and ph

At a pH of 7.6 you are getting into the range where even small amounts of Ammonia will become toxic to your fish.
But regardless of pH you should always have 0ppm of Ammonia and Nitrites. So either you are in a mini cycle or you do not have adequate filtration.
The goal for your Nitrates is to have them under 20ppm. If they get close to 20ppm a 50% water change is recommended.
Does your water conditioner neutralize Ammonia and Nitrites by any chance ? If not it would be good to pick up a bottle of Prime or its powder version Safe.

So to figure out the Ammonia situation we will need a little more info about your tank.
( And yes , I know you have posted before and I know the info I ask is probably out there somewhere , but I want to get this post out so we can help you and will dig around after I get this done ).

How big is the tank ?
What and how many fish ?
How long has it been set up ?
How much and how often do you change water ?
When you clean the filter media do you rinse it with old tank water or tap water ?
Exactly what type of filtration is on your tank ?

Have you ever checked your tap water ? Quite a few people have Nitrates in their tap water , and we have come across some having low levels of Ammonia as well.
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Rocksor replied the topic: High nitrate and ph

bottle number 2 of the nitrate test must be shaken for at least 1 minute like your life depended on it. There a solid particles that clump up in the bottle when it sits around for more than 1 week.

Sometimes it can take a few hours for ammonia to get fully processed by bacteria, especially if you have chloramine treated water. I typically don't test for ammonia until the next day after a water change.

You can test for nitrates in about a couple of hours after a water change.
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  • Wilson
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Wilson replied the topic: High nitrate and ph

I have a 55 gallon tank with one juvenile red oscar. Right now I only have a hob that circulates 400 gallons per hour. I am going to pick up a canister when I get paid early next week. I set the tank up in November and did a fish less cycle for a month and then got my community fish in dec.two weeks ago I put the oscar in and moved the little ones to another tank. I was doing weekly water changes at 30 or 40 percent, but got some advice on here to do larger ones, so I did 50 % today. Two days before I got Waldo, I did rinse my filters with tap water not even thinking. I won't make that mistake again. The filter is an aqueon brand if that makes a difference. As for the nitrate test I watched the video on here and did it right along with it, and I did it twice, so I think it is accurate. I really appreciate it. I know you guys get tired of answering the same newbie questions over and over, but I have learned so much here, I hope you know how appreciated you all are!!!!!!
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Wilson replied the topic: High nitrate and ph

Okay I tested my tap water. There is no ammonia but the nitrates weren't quite 0 but a little lighter than my tank. So it isn't quite a .25.
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Firestorm8215 replied the topic: High nitrate and ph

Even with trace amounts of Nitrate in your tap you can get it well below 20ppm.
And every time you do a 50% water change you will cut the Nitrates in half.
If you have a good quality water conditioner that neutralizes the Ammonia and Nitrites you could probably get away with 50% every other day.
When you rinsed your filter in tap water you probably lost most of your beneficial bacteria and it will just take a little time to get that back.

I would get the Seachem Prime or Seachem Safe ( powder version of Prime ) and do 50% water changes every other day. Testing the day you dont change the water as a safeguard. That way if something goes terribly wrong you can do an emergency WC and it will give the tank a chance to settle after the WC.

And dont worry about asking too many questions. Thats what we are here for. Besides...if we can teach you ,we will have eventually one more person that can help others if you decide to stick around. :)
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Rocksor replied the topic: High nitrate and ph

my tap water has 0.25ppm ammonia due to chloramine, and anywhere from 0.25ppm-0.5ppm nitrite, with nitrates around 5ppm.

The ammonia and nitrites are always 0ppm the next day after a water change. I can keep the nitrates below 20ppm with water changes every 2-3 days of at least 25%. Over the course of 7 days, I change anywhere from 75%-100% of the water.
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Darth Nandopsis replied the topic: High nitrate and ph

Whatever you do, don't touch those filter pads until the canister that you plan to purchase is fully cycled.....all your beneficial bacteria will be on that pad.

I can recommend 2 HOB's if you don't have the cash for a canister....

The Fluval C4, has a built in trickle filter, very powerful, versatile, & is around $45 online.

OR

Marineland Emperor 400. Built in Bio-Wheel technology, based on what's used in waste treatment plants. Also very powerful & versatile. Around $50.

Both of these have dedicated biological filtration, separate from the mechanical. You never touch the biological component. I have both on my tanks, & can highly recommend. B)

If you're really strapped for cash, a good air pump & a sponge filter will provide excellent biological filtration(& mechanical as well) & shouldn't run over $30 for both, but get the most powerful air pump you can find. The best & most reliable ones I have used are Penn Plax, they pump out an amazing volume of air @ a competitive price. The sponge filter does, however, take up tank volume.

Keep doing all the WC's you can, as often as you can, making sure to vacuum the gravel/sand each time, & always use a high-quality de-chlorinator, such as Tetra AquaSafe or Prime.

THOSE WHO REFUSE KNOWLEDGE ARE DOOMED TO FAIL.

WATER CHANGES ARE THE LIFEBLOOD OF THIS HOBBY. IF YOU DON'T BELIEVE SO OR SIMPLY DON'T FEEL LIKE DOING THEM, RE-HOME YOUR FISH, SELL YOUR AQUARIUM & FIND ANOTHER HOBBY, AS YOU WILL FAIL UTTERLY, COMPLETELY, & MISERABLY.
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Wilson replied the topic: High nitrate and ph

Thanks for you help. I have been doing water changes every other day, and the nitrates are now 10 and the ammonia is zero. I will keep an eye on it until I know those filters have fully re cycled.
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Darth Nandopsis replied the topic: High nitrate and ph

Whatever you get, you will need supplemental biological & mechanical; cichlids are messy eaters, & put a tremendous strain on any filtration.

THOSE WHO REFUSE KNOWLEDGE ARE DOOMED TO FAIL.

WATER CHANGES ARE THE LIFEBLOOD OF THIS HOBBY. IF YOU DON'T BELIEVE SO OR SIMPLY DON'T FEEL LIKE DOING THEM, RE-HOME YOUR FISH, SELL YOUR AQUARIUM & FIND ANOTHER HOBBY, AS YOU WILL FAIL UTTERLY, COMPLETELY, & MISERABLY.
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