Do I WC or not?

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Sosban Fach replied the topic: Do I WC or not?

Rocksor has more experience than me with regards to cycling. So if you haven't already done the water change hold back as he said.
If you have done a water change, don't worry it won't have done any harm.

As default the soloution to most things is water change. My advice would have removed immediate harm.

Rocksor is advising you to assist your cycle. He is right I am wrong in that respect.

RO unit at 100 gals per day, phew thats a heck of a pace. Mines a 50.

When doing water changes with RO the majour issue is temprature. You will find if you store it in barrels first you will end up haveing to either warm the water or trickle it in.

I bought an extra long pipe for mine so the water goes directly into the tank because its at a slow rate it doesn't drop the tank temprature.

You should be okay with your faster flow rate, but keep an eye on your tank temprature if you try to do it in this method.

The reason I asked about the size of your fish and the tank size is because it affects the rate your nitrates will climb and the rate in which you can deal with them.

Your RO filter is more than capable of provideing you with enough water quickly enough to get over this cycling issue. You can do a 100% water change in just over half a day, with less than a days notice, which is very good because you will likley need to do a 50% change every other day.

A larger tank and smaller RO filter and you would have been in trouble.
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Liz-Louise replied the topic: Do I WC or not?

Thanks for reply Sosban Fach. I did go for the larger RO unit :-) It was only a little more expensive than the 60 gal but I'm pretty sure I'm going to get a pretty low output as our water is extremely cold and someone suggested if I expected to get 50% output from unit max I wouldn't end up disappointed. I got the 100 gal one and figured I wouldn't be put out by its output for my 250L Oscar tank even if it did drop to 50% output.

I have a few 50w aquarium heaters kicking about. Was planning to use them in the RO storage containers for the few hours before introducing the water to the aquarium. Hoping this will get around our freezing cold water issue.
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Rocksor replied the topic: Do I WC or not?

Does the water freeze in the RO containers? If not, then boiling some of the RO water and mixing it back into the cold RO water will be faster at raising the temp prior to introduction to aquarium.

I have found that using a gas stove to boil water and mixing with cold water works a lot faster. I can use about 1 US gallon of boiling water to raise 4 US gallons of 54F water to around 10 degress higher.
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Liz-Louise replied the topic: Do I WC or not?

Rocksor wrote: Does the water freeze in the RO containers? If not, then boiling so
me of the RO water and mixing it back into the cold RO water will be faster at raising the temp prior to introduction to aquarium.

I have found that using a gas stove to boil water and mixing with cold water works a lot faster. I can use about 1 US gallon of boiling water to raise 4 US gallons of 54F water to around 10 degress higher.


Not, it wont freeze and thanks for the tip. Whatever's quickest! :-)
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Sosban Fach replied the topic: Do I WC or not?

50% That seems a little high to me. Did they specify 50% on the box?

Most RO units use the same R0 membrane so a 1:3 ratio is more common. That means only 33.33% is useable, which decreases if its colder.

I decided to go with a 5 stage 50 gal rather than a 3 stage 100 gal. I will be interested in how yours works out.

Personally I pipe my RO water directly into the tank because them im useing heat from the tank it is more efficent way of heating the water saves a bit of money.
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Big-Ken replied the topic: Do I WC or not?

Shes talking about the 100 gallons per day output, a RO membrane is most efficient when the tap water is between 75-78f the colder the incoming water is the slower the membrane is at making water

Personally I pipe my RO water directly into the tank because them im useing heat from the tank it is more efficent way of heating the water saves a bit of money.

This is a bad idea for two reasons

1. The fish need the mineral content in the water to properly function and grow, while in the short term this might not visibly effect the fish it will shorten the fishes overall lifespan

2. Since the new water has been striped of all of its mineral content your water no longer has the kH and gH levels to buffer and stabilize your ph and prevent large ph swings
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Sosban Fach replied the topic: Do I WC or not?

Big-Ken wrote: This is a bad idea for two reasons

1. The fish need the mineral content in the water to properly function and grow, while in the short term this might not visibly effect the fish it will shorten the fishes overall lifespan

2. Since the new water has been striped of all of its mineral content your water no longer has the kH and gH levels to buffer and stabilize your ph and prevent large ph swings


Minerals content can easily be adjusted whether you mix the water before you put it in the tank in or you can introduced "mineralised" water into the tank seperatly. It makes no odds whether these are mixed inside or outside of the tank.

So whilst Ken may a valid point about minerals. It doesn't really make it a bad idea to directly add RO water to the tank. If youi are conderned about monitoring how much RO water you put in to get a consistant mix. What I do is use a whhite board marker to mark the tank before I put the water in and measure the difference once I had added the RO water.

I admit I don't have tests to monitor levels of kh gh. The levels of required kh and gh don't pop up on here very often. The term "minerals" is vague at best. My understanding is that in most cases a low gh or soft water is best for cichlids an RO filter most definatly achieves this; but of course minerals includes things like iron, zinc, potasium etc.

Kh is of cource calcium carbonate; which I would assume would assiste bone and cartilidge growth; I would be very interested in finding out whether this is true.

I have been trying to find out exactly what the various "minerals" required are and what level they should be at for oscars, but yet to find anyone state anything less vague than the term itself. If anyone can give some solid advice I would be very interested thankyou.

I have never had any huge ph swings I test my tank on a regular basis. Minor ph swings to my undersantding is acceptable
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