t.d.s

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salmonator created the topic: t.d.s

What is the maximum total dissolved solid level for an Oscar tank
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Rocksor replied the topic: t.d.s

I wouldnt use tds as an indicator for a water change. I havent seen any scientific paper that talks about what level is safe for amazonian fish, but I would gather a higher tds level would shorten the lifespan. Basically, the higher the tds level the more work an amazonian fish body has to do in order to release minerals from its body.

The best things to measure are ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates.
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Suprd71 replied the topic: t.d.s

Is it also true that tds from tap to existing tank should not be of wide variance? Osmotic shock becomes a possibility?


I may not be the Boss, but I'm ALWAYS right!
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salmonator replied the topic: t.d.s

I'm not basing water changes off of that only. I will be going off of ph .tds. And nitrate. I will be using large amounts of terrestrial plans I. a aquaponic type setup to take care of heavy metals. Phosphate. And nitrates. Or at least make a dent in them . As I try and gauge in what works best for my aquarium for water change frequency and amount.
And I think tds has a relationship with ph somehow. so it could cause shock. Hell, if temp causes shock i don't see why tds wouldn't. From what I've read each fish absorbs tds a different way and once it's accustomed and then you cha he it rapidly I could see why it would cause shock
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UNC-CH replied the topic: t.d.s

Many say that TDS should be as much if not more of a concern when it comes to possible shock than pH.
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salmonator replied the topic: t.d.s

Exactly what I'm hearing . So I'm going to use that as a guide line to when I do water changes as well as nitrates and ph . As why I'm asking what do you all think the maximum tds is before water needs to be changed.I'm thinking 75 to 200.
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Darth Nandopsis replied the topic: t.d.s

Here's my guidelines for changing the water:

75% bare minimum 1X per week without fail. Never had a fish die, shock, or have anything happen to them other than they become extremely vigorous & healthy.

PH shock is a myth. In the wild fish swim freely between varying PH zones w/ zero ill effects. My PH in my 125GL Oscar tank goes from 6.8 to almost 8.0 when I do my weekly( sometimes bi-weekly) WC routine, & my fish are THRIVING. Generally people that have fish die after a large WC experience that because they haven't done a WC in months, then they change 95% of the water......then the fish will most definitely go into osmotic shock & usually die.

If you wish to keep large, robust species like Oscars you can never change enough water, EVER. Hell that applies to "sensitive" species like Discus too...I used to keep & breed them & changed almost 75% daily, w/ no ill effects, ever.

Between this thread & the other one you started, it just seems like you are going out of your way to find some valid excuse for not performing weekly WC's..............."I guess it just doesn't make sence why u have to change 50 percent water each week."........the bottom line to all this is that if you wish to keep large cichlids, & you wish to be successful, doing frequent large scale WC's is simply part & parcel of keeping them....especially Oscars....Oscars are an Amazonian fish genetically, & demand pristine water....& when they don't get it, the end result is an unhealthy fish...go on YT & type in "oscar hith", & see what you get...all these fish have been kept in sub-par conditions/water parameters.....if you wish to avoid this, the easiest & wisest course of action is the simplest.....do frequent massive WC's....if you don't wish to or think this is simply not feasible, keep a heavily planted community tank or species of cichlids that are more tolerant of less than ideal water parameters, like Convicts. But basing an Oscars WC schedule off of a tds reading is an unwise course of action, & will lead to problems long-term.

THOSE WHO REFUSE KNOWLEDGE ARE DOOMED TO FAIL.

WATER CHANGES ARE THE LIFEBLOOD OF THIS HOBBY. IF YOU DON'T BELIEVE SO OR SIMPLY DON'T FEEL LIKE DOING THEM, RE-HOME YOUR FISH, SELL YOUR AQUARIUM & FIND ANOTHER HOBBY, AS YOU WILL FAIL UTTERLY, COMPLETELY, & MISERABLY.
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Rocksor replied the topic: t.d.s

salmonator wrote: Exactly what I'm hearing . So I'm going to use that as a guide line to when I do water changes as well as nitrates and ph . As why I'm asking what do you all think the maximum tds is before water needs to be changed.I'm thinking 75 to 200.


Are you taking about an increase of TDS from 75 to 200? I see nitrates go from 5ppm to 20ppm with only a TDS change of 50ppm.

I can change the TDS of a tank from 400ppm to 1200ppm without changing the PH. So there is really no directly relationship between the two, where raising one, decreases the other or vice versa.
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salmonator replied the topic: t.d.s

I'm not trying to get around water changes. I'm trying to find the fine ratio between water changes. I'll do a water change every week. But I'm just trying to figure out ideas of how to base them off of incase I'm in a crunch for time ever as I work 6 days out of the week generally .I repeat . I WILL BE DOING weekly water changes. I'm trying to figure out what to base my guidelines off of to figure out how much to change and how often. I won't be using tds only as a guideline. If that raises to fast . I'll do a water change. If ph drops more then 0.2 I'll do a water change. If nitrates go past 20. I'll do a water change. I think you guys are misjugding my questions. Or I am just not clear enough . I'm sorry if I'm not making sence.
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Rocksor replied the topic: t.d.s

PH is a hard parameter to change if you KH is at 4 degrees. It will not change if you are doing enough weekly water changes. Get a KH/GH kit and determine those parameters.

TDS should not reach above 50ppm from the TDS of your tap water if you are doing enough water changes for the week. Make sure to keep the tap water out in a container for 24 hours before measuring, and airstone will help to "degass" the water.

For nitrates, once you get to orange red, do a water change. You can test nitrates 1 hour after your water change.

Test ammonia and nitrites weekly (both should be 0ppm). Test PH monthly or longer. Test TDS weekly. Test nitrates every 3 days.
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